Place your pre-assembled railing panel so that baluster spacing is roughly the same on both sides. This means the space between the closest baluster and the post at either end should be equal. Eyeball this at first, then clamp your railing panel in place and take a moment to measure the spacing. Adjust as necessary before you mark your cutting point. Remember, you need a minimum of 1 ¼ inch space for the baluster to clear the bracket.
You will need to use a light-colored marker to show up on the black railing – silver works particularly well.
Secure your panel to your sawhorse using your clamp, and extend the cut mark you made earlier using your speed square as a ruler. Next, cut the top and bottom rails at both ends using a circular saw with a wood-cutting blade. Remember, the finer your blade, the cleaner the cut. Remember to put on your ear and eye protection before you cut.
Adding Painter’s tape on the shoe of your saw will minimize scuffs and scratches on the surface of your railing panels.
Finally, you need to cut access holes in the anti-rattle strip at the top of your railing. This is to allow you to fasten your railing to your brackets and posts. You'll have to backtrack later if you don't cut them now.
Start this step by placing your anti-rattle adhesive strip on the top surfaces of your two bottom brackets.
Next, line the ends of your railing up with the brackets on your posts and set them into place. Once they're sitting comfortably, use the windows you cut in the anti-rattle strip to drill two holes through the rail and the bracket. Repeat at the other end. Use a 7/64" drill bit for this.
Next, secure the top rail to the brackets on the railings at both ends with the provided stainless steel screws. Remember to adjust your drill to a lower setting to insert the screws. Otherwise, you risk damaging the thread on your screws or the top rail and bracket.
The top cap – which goes over the top rail – has to be the same length as that rail. Measure it, mark it, and cut it before you set it on top of the rail, align the ends, and tap it into place with your rubber mallet. You should hear the top cap click into place, but you can test it by pulling along both edges.
Next, add your bracket covers. The top covers are flexible — just press and click them into place over the top of your bracket. The bottom bracket covers are more rigid, with a tab at the post side. Set these in place, and use a piece of wood to tap them into place as the space between balusters is too small for a mallet or much manual dexterity. Repeat for all brackets.
The post cap is even easier. Simply set it on top of your post, make sure it's aligned and level, and tap into place with your mallet.
One or two clamps
A speed square
A light-colored marker pen (silver is recommended)
A sharpened pencil
A circular saw with a fine wood-cutting blade
Snips/shears
A measuring tape
A heavy rubber mallet
Drill
Drill bits
Spray paint and/or a touch-up pen
Painters' tape
Thick, fingerless gloves
Pre-installed posts (end, line, and corner)
Two-piece post covers
Screws
Adhesive strips
Top and bottom bracket covers
Pre-assembled horizontal panels
Rail brackets
Trex signature stair panels
This content was partially or fully generated by AI and has been reviewed by our team to ensure accuracy and relevance.